Tiles are like glass, chipped edges from masonry hammer bits equal less strength.When it comes to drilling through tile, there are two main types of tile that you’ll encounter – ceramic and porcelain. Spray hole and bit with water consistently throughout drilling and cooling. Use nail and hammer out of drill to clean out.įor usage start on 45 degree to create cutting edge then straighten once there is grip. Get ones that have straight through holes as side exit get blocked very easy. I have one per size and they last upwards of a year. Pay as much as you can and get one that as a grind stone. Only use light pressure and don't wet the hole it stops the cutting. These bits do 50-75% of the tiles I encounter and last around 10 holes.įor usage I recommend SLOW about as slow as a good 18v cordless will go in 2nd but fast enough not to grip and stop working up to medium speed. My advice for good results is be careful where you spend your $$$.Īs a trade I spend 2 to 3 dollars for each spear head tile and glass bit or more like $7 for DIY home owners. I fit shower screens for a living and drill over 1000 holes a year in bathrooms mainly 6mm and 8mm. Nonetheless, hopefully this helps someone else in the same situation as me who doesn't fancy spending an entire weekend drilling. Loads of good answers above and i'm sure many folks with far more experience than myself will say never to use hammer action on tile of any sort. No cracked tiles, no scratches on the surface and the new bits still look in good shape. Switching to the above method, i was getting each hole done in about 2 mins. I had 24 holes to drill in total - the first 2 took about 30 mins each using non-hammer action all the way with only tile bits and i ruined the first tile bit entirely. Widen once that's completed, using a masonry drill bit in NON hammer action. Keep the drill stable or have the bit go wandering across the tile. Start very slowly and don't apply too much pressure early on or you risk cracking the tile. Once you've got a reasonable pilot hole/indentation, switch to a carbide tip masonry drill bit, on hammer action. (i did this by dunking the tip into a tiny cup of water and it worked fine) Reasonable pressure on the drill but make sure you cool the bit every 30 seconds or so. NOT a thin, glazed bathroom wall tile)įirst - corded drill, non-hammer setting with a carbide tip, tile drill bit (looks like an arrowhead) to get a small ~3mm deep indentation in the tile surface. (and I am sure the ones you describe)Īfter a reasonable amount of experimenting and one entirely mangled bit, the following worked best to drill though what i can best describe as synthetic slate/stone tile ~12mm thick. These are the regular tile bits which I speak of. (i think you need to go for name brands here) I have previously bought diamond bits like these with very little success. So basically, if you are keeping the cut surface nice and wet (cool), and you have a sharp bit, you are doing everything right. I find that it cuts well on some of my bits. as you suggested, some bits actually like it when you move the drill in an orbital fashion. You should hear it biting into the tile, As soon as you go too fast and see the tile or bit-tip going red, you have probably destroyed the bit (this is especially true for ceramic tiles) Second, keep the drill at slow speed - high torque, pushing hard onto the tile. What I do, is get a straw filled with water, or a spray bottle, and get a helper to either "pipette" or spray water onto the hole while you drill. Hopefully you have a nice drill (generally battery operated may be a little on the light side). normally it should feel nice and sharp against your finger. Check your Tile bit to see if you have melted the edge.
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